Sand pours through open doorways, fills bathtubs and climbs halfway up the walls of grand old houses. Kolmanskop, a ghost town in the desert near Lüderitz, was once one of the richest places in Africa, built on a diamond rush. Today it's one of Namibia's most haunting sights. This guide covers Kolmanskop's history, how to visit, what to see in the harbour town of Lüderitz nearby, and how to fit the south coast into your route.
Kolmanskop at a glance
- Where: about 10 km inland from Lüderitz, on Namibia's southern coast
- Founded: after diamonds were found nearby in 1908
- Abandoned: by the mid-1950s
- Visit: on a guided tour, or with a photographer's permit for early and late light
- Combine with: Lüderitz, the wild horses near Aus and the Fish River Canyon
The story of Kolmanskop
In 1908, a railway worker named Zacharias Lewala picked up a shiny stone near the line to Lüderitz and showed it to his supervisor. It was a diamond. Within months, prospectors poured into the desert, and the German colonial authorities declared a huge area off-limits for diamond mining. That area, the Sperrgebiet, stayed closed to the public for most of the next century.
Kolmanskop grew quickly into a wealthy little town. It had grand houses for the mine managers, a hospital, a school, a casino and ballroom, a bowling alley, an ice factory and a butchery, all in the middle of the Namib Desert. Water had to be brought in, yet residents enjoyed comforts that many European towns did not have.
The boom didn't last. Richer diamond fields were found further south, near the Orange River, and mining moved away from Kolmanskop from the late 1920s. The last residents left in the 1950s. Since then, the desert wind has been slowly reclaiming the town, one room at a time.
How to visit Kolmanskop
Kolmanskop lies inside a protected area, so you need a permit, which is included when you join a guided tour or buy an entry ticket at the gate. Guided tours run in the mornings and are the best way to hear the town's stories, from the doctors at the hospital to the families who lived in the managers' houses. After the tour you're free to wander and photograph the buildings on your own.
| Option | What it includes | Best for |
|---|---|---|
| Guided tour | A morning tour of the main buildings, then time to explore | Most visitors |
| Photographer's permit | Access outside tour hours, including early morning and late afternoon light | Photographers who want empty rooms and soft light |
Opening times and permit rules can change, so confirm them before you go. Wear closed shoes, as floors can be broken and there are loose nails, and never climb on unstable walls or stairs.
What to see in Kolmanskop
- The sand-filled houses: the image everyone wants, with dunes flowing through doorways and pastel walls.
- The hospital: once one of the best-equipped in southern Africa for its time.
- The casino and ballroom: the social heart of the town, with a stage and a bowling alley.
- The managers' houses: larger homes on the edge of town, often the most photogenic.
- The small museum: photos and objects from the diamond years.
Things to do in Lüderitz
Lüderitz is a small, windswept harbour town of colourful German-era buildings, set on a rocky bay between the desert and the Atlantic. It feels very different from anywhere else in Namibia, and it's worth at least a day.
Landmark
Felsenkirche
The "church on the rock", completed in 1912, stands above the town with views over the harbour and the bay.
History
Goerke Haus
One of the town's grand early houses, built for a diamond-era manager on the hill above the town.
Coastline
Diaz Point
A rugged headland where a replica cross marks the spot where Portuguese navigator Bartolomeu Dias landed in 1488. Seals, wind and crashing waves make it wild and beautiful.
Wildlife
Boat trips on the bay
When the weather allows, boat trips head out past seals and dolphins, and towards Halifax Island, home to a colony of African penguins.
Food
Lüderitz oysters and crayfish
Fresh oysters from the cold Atlantic water are a local speciality, along with crayfish in season.
Shark Island, on the edge of the harbour, is also a place of remembrance. During the colonial war of 1904 to 1908, a concentration camp there held Nama and Herero prisoners, and many died. A memorial marks the site. It's an important part of Namibia's history to understand while you're here.
The wild horses near Aus
On the road between Aus and Lüderitz, a small herd of wild horses lives in the Namib, one of the very few in the world adapted to desert life. Their origins are still debated, but they've roamed this area for around a century. The best place to see them is the viewing point at the Garub waterhole, a short drive west of Aus. Go in the early morning or late afternoon, when the horses come to drink.
When to visit
The south coast can be visited all year, but expect wind. It's often strongest in the summer months, when it can whip sand across the roads and make boat trips impossible. Winter days, from May to September, are usually calmer and clearer, though cold in the mornings. The wind also creates Kolmanskop's ever-changing dunes, so even a windy day has its rewards.
Getting there and how long to stay
Lüderitz is at the end of a long tarred road, the B4, from Keetmanshoop, and the drive through the desert past Aus is one of Namibia's most beautiful. Allow at least two nights: one day for Kolmanskop and the town, and one for Diaz Point, a boat trip or the wild horses. Many travellers combine Lüderitz with the Fish River Canyon, then head north to the dunes of Sossusvlei.
More day trips from Lüderitz
- Agate Beach: a sandy beach just north of town, good for a walk and a picnic when the wind drops.
- Grosse Bucht: a wild bay south of Lüderitz, where flamingos sometimes feed in the shallows.
- The diamond coast: licensed operators run permit tours deeper into the old diamond area, to sites such as the Bogenfels rock arch and the ruins of Elizabeth Bay. Book well ahead, as numbers are limited and you'll need your passport details.
Whichever you choose, start early: the wind usually picks up as the day goes on.
Tips for your visit
- Pack a windproof jacket and sunglasses: sand blows hard on windy days.
- Protect your camera with a cover, and change lenses inside the car.
- Fill up with fuel in Keetmanshoop or Aus, and don't drive the B4 at night.
- Book your accommodation in Lüderitz ahead in the school holidays.
- Respect the buildings: don't remove anything, and stay out of areas marked as closed.
Want southern Namibia planned for you? See our Namibia tours, or read our Sossusvlei photography guide for tips that work just as well among Kolmanskop's sand-filled rooms.
Photo credits: cover photo and photo in the article via Wikimedia Commons, used under their free licences. See each linked page for the photographer and licence.
Frequently asked questions
Can you visit Kolmanskop without a tour?
You need a permit to enter, which comes with a guided tour or an entry ticket. After the morning tour you can explore on your own. Photographers can buy a special permit for early and late access.
Why was Kolmanskop abandoned?
Kolmanskop grew after diamonds were found nearby in 1908, but richer diamond fields were later discovered further south. Mining moved away from the late 1920s, and the last residents left in the 1950s.
How far is Kolmanskop from Lüderitz?
Kolmanskop is about 10 km inland from Lüderitz, a short drive on the main road into town.
Where can you see the wild horses of the Namib?
At the Garub waterhole viewing point, a short drive west of Aus on the road to Lüderitz. Early morning and late afternoon are best.
How many days do you need in Lüderitz?
Two nights is ideal: one day for Kolmanskop and the town, and one for Diaz Point, a boat trip or the wild horses near Aus.
Add Kolmanskop to your route
We'll combine Lüderitz, the Fish River Canyon and the Namib into one southern Namibia journey.
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